Loaded up some vids

Ok, so I haven't uploaded ANYTHING for a while. This was mainly technical issues, originally, now it's more laziness...

BUT I have managed to upload a stack of videos to You Tube, mostly the Atlantic crossing. Those with Facebook may have seen most of them, but if you haven't (or want to revisits the comedy gold of the Taoist Master or Mid Atlantic Rap again, just go to You Tube, search "gdayitsdamo", and there should be a dozen or so (select one then click the drop down menu, or gdayitsdamo tab, or whatever. You'll work it out I'm sure...)

NB - I wanted to just load them to this blog, but you CAN'T DO THAT ON IPAD (like a shitload of other things), hence I've had to use You Tube. And by extension, there probably goes my chances of future employment too...

Keep Calm and Get Oan Wi' It!

Location:Scootland och aye!

Not really an update...

I realise I haven't posted for over a month, but since the iPad and iPhone shat themselves, I haven't been able to upload photos, so I'll wait til I get to London and Apple can fix/replace their rubbish products before updating in full...

But a brief rundown of events from the last month, which i will use as a reminder for later expansion:

Panama - San Blas Islands
went to the San Blas islands for 4-5 days.  Awesome coral islands, andtoo much sun and booze...

Panama - Portobello & Talofa
Joined Talofa in Portobello, went cruising to teh San Blas islands (yep, again).  Awesome in a boat.  Met up with other boats from Columbia for parties on beach.  Fired the cannons on board Talofa (yes, we had cannons), and led a pirate raiding party to the beach to kidap the saucy wenches.  Yep, we played pirates... 

Talofa - to US Virgin Islands
headed off for the deivery.  Into winds and current all the way, so motor sailed all the time.  two days in, realised we vcouldnt make it directly to USVI, so detoured to Jamaica!  Wicked!  Ripped mainsail two days out of Jamaica, so only motor - very rolly. called in to Domican Republic for more fuel & oil.    Big squall off Puerto Rico including water spouts and freezing winds (microburst?).  Arrived US Virgin Islands.  Charlotte Amalie highest murder rate in the Americas - gunfire every night.  Didn't know this of course until after we'd gotten pissed and went to the 'local' part of town looking for local bars.  Hightailed it to British Virgin Islands.

BVI
Road Town superb.  Cricket on the telly, and way friendly people.  went to Royal BVI Yacht Club and got a ride for the Anegade Race (biggest and most prestigeous island to island race in Caribbean).  Got third.  Got pissed.  Great sail back next day.  Fantastic Club and people, had offers to stay on boats and couches instead of (expensive) hotel, but leaving soon...

Leaving tomorrow!
Got a ride to the Canaries (or Azores, depends on weather).  leave tomorrow morning.  4-5 weeks (hopefully not much more), then probably fly to England, get iPad fixed, and update this blog with some PHOTOS!

getting ready to sail...

(note - im posting this blog on a latin american laptop, which is not configured for englissh - and some damn buttons are in different places, so therell be bugger all punctuation and a heap of spelling mistakes)

im now back in panama city, to see a few sites i havent before, as well as getting ready to meet my boat for the delivery to the virgin islands.  cant wait - went to the canal yesterday for a look and three yachts were transitting, as well as a US warship.  very interesting to watch.  no truly!  OK, so the canal mechanisms and the warship did appeal to my "inner nerd", but it IS interesting. watching a large ship slowly be lowered is like watching the titanic sink. except it was a warship, there were no icebergs (in fact there were buildings and machinery, and tyou cant see any water), and everyone on the ship mwas smiling and waving, so actually nothing like the titanic now i think of it.

spent today on the island of taboga, about 10 miles south of panama, and a truly fantastic place.  very colourful little village, great beaches, and this time they were nearly deserted.  only about 40 of us on the once daily ferry, and not many locals.  I really dont understand why about a thousand panamanians and tourists dont come every day.  its very accessable and the location and beaches are superb.  might check out the real estate prices...

met a cool couple from kentucky on taboga who are holidaying here (tip for the derby - "The Factor"), and tried to convince them to buy a yacht.  theyve no keelboat experience (plenty in dinghies), but i volunteered to skipper for them throughout the caribbean, if only theyd just buy the yacht!

Note to self - Career idea #3 - rent out beach cats here (or in Bocas).  how much is my house worth now...

have possibly found a boat to europe, but it is not a perfect fit.  it is currently in jamaica, and they dont plan to go to the virgin islands, instead heading to bermuda.  they tthen heading to the Med and turkey, via Azores, Spain, Sardinia, Crete, Greek Islands.  Would be awesome!   i could potentially fry to bermuda from the VI, just waiting to hear more from the skipper.  im also a bit concious of not committing, as im reasonably confident of fing a boat in the Virgin Islands even if i have to wait a bit.  Otherwise its a flight to London, but i really want to sail!

couldnt get the damn ipad fixed here - not an apple store, just a "premium reseller", so that will have to wait til London.  But ive been warned before about complaining about "first world" problems, so im dealing with it.  Still shits me though...

hasta.

The first time I was here

Have come across some photos of my first visit here. I don't think I've aged at all?

And don't they love a parade...

They clearly love a parade here in Panama. First the Cabalgatas with every horse in the country, and now of course it's Easter. And in this strongly Catholic country, that means a parade.

The largest in the country is in a tiny town about 15kms from David called Alanje. About 15 thousand attend in a town of 200. Also, thousands of people walk here (some over 50kms) to say thanks for prayers answered previously. Some have been making this walk for over twenty years. I'd be praying that I don't get run over on next years walk...

Easter of course is big here. Mandy, if you thought Good Friday was boring in Melbourne, don't come to Panama! The sale of alcohol is prohibited from midday Thursday until midday Saturday. No-one told me! I couldn't even buy a bottle of wine! It's the Blood of Christ for Gods sake! (couldn't buy sake either). Oh well, I guess a couple of AFD's can't hurt...

But we're not going to Alanje (we've got a car), so we're off to Boquete that also has a famous parade that brings thousands to the town for Good Friday.

The parade starts at 7:30, so naturally we get there at 5:30 for a good spot.

The Parade gets underway at 8:30.

And for a parade that attracts thousands, it's actually pretty lame. There are only four floats, with hundred of people walking behind each one. Not really much to see! But anyway, below are some pics and descriptions of each float. Sorry for the crap quality, but my iPad is still rooted so can't upload photos. These were taken with my phone.

Float #1
A very substantial illuminated cross carried by about 20 blokes. They had to stop every 40 metres to rest. Obviously a heavy cross to bear. The guy with the long sticks job is to lift the overhead powerlines over the top of the cross. Very important job I think, the parade being led by a burning cross would not be a good look...

Float #2
Pretty self explanatory I think. This one had the most people following, about a thousand I guess.

Float #3
The Virgin Mary I think. I do actually have some information on this float though. It is being towed by a New Holland TS400 tractor. This model delivers over 190bhp through a 12 speed transmission, and has a turning diameter of under 8 metres with high clearance, making it ideal for use growing potatoes, bananas, or corn, which the Indians call "maize".

Float #4
Similar to the first, looks very heavy, but, wait a minute... are they WHEELS?!? No wonder they've been relegated to the back. Probably the Protestant float...


Parade finishes about 10:30 (mainly because of the first float continuously stoping I think).

Only 14 hours to go til I can buy some booze!


Hasta,

Dolphin watching watching

Bocas del Toro is an archipelago on the Caribbean side of Panama, (recently) famous for its white powder beaches, crystal clear water, and marine life.

Guess I'd better go see it then...

So I arranged a boat trip. The best boat trip. I researched, asked questions, quizzed other hosteliers, and found the best one going around. This trip left half hour earlier than the others - more time at the beach yeah? (Wippet, I think you know where this is heading. Remember the Fat Cat to Green Island?)

So there we are, under way whilst the other tours are still milling around on the dock! Ha! We'll have seen all the dolphins, then scared them away, before anyone else gets close!

Half way to the never-miss dolphin viewing site, we've been passed by everyone, including a friggin' sailboat! Nevermind, we've not missed anything. 18 pangas (18! You should see the photo, which I'll post as soon as this iPad starts working properly again) are all crowded in a half acre, all hustling for the best vantage spot.

Now, how many dolphins do you think we (or anyone else) saw? That's right. Nada; None; Zero!

What is it with me and fucking sea mammals? First the killer whales, then the normal whales, and now the dolphins are in on the fucking joke???



I'm not bothered though, I've seen plenty of dolphins in my time, and actually enjoyed the dolphin watching watching (watching punters try to watch dolphins) more than if Flipper himself (herself?) turned up for a show...

Thankfully we didn't waste time. More to see and do, so off to the promised deserted island for some swimming and chilling (we brought beer).

And what an island! Just like the brochure. In fact I'm sure all the 100 tourists on this particular deserted island thoroughly enjoyed the serenity. Ah, how's the serenity...

Two hours the skipper said. "Be back on this beach at 2:30". I'd been swimming for a while, and was losing track of time. I check my new waterproof watch - Shit! It's 88 minutes (and 88 seconds) after 88 o'clock. Better get cracking...

No time to rest though, so fang those 25 Mercury horses to the coral atoll (or is it attol?) for some more snorkeling.

The water is crystal clear. All the better to view the myriad of starfish. Red ones, orange ones, orangey-red ones... I saw one MASSIVE one, and then another (but maybe it was just the same one and I approached it from a different angle, 72 degrees or a multiple thereof). But they are amazing and entertaining creatures, having perfected the art of sitting on the sea floor and doing FUCK ALL. There were also sea cucumbers, which are the Usain Bolt of the (**google starfish/sea cucumber genus and add here**) world, regularly moving three metres a day. So I've been told. One particular cucumber was very brightly coloured, but of course I keep well clear (natures warning sign and all)...

And we finish the day with a trip to Red Frog beach (I'm sure I don't need to tell you how many red frogs we saw). But then, they did have a bar...

So, starfish fans, come to Bocas!

Hasta,

Damo.




(All this actually happened, but it was a great day, did also see loads of fish at abother spot, awesome weather and water, but no-one wants to hear that...)

Location:Bocas del Toro

Hammock ratings

1. Casa de Olivares, David, Chiriqui
Location: Excellent, 20 feet from bed.
Atmosphere: Well it's just a house in the suburbs...
Hammock: Netted, with spreaders. Clean, easy to swing.
Ease of beer consumption: Cheap beer (if I've remembered to buy it earlier). Need to get it myself though.
View: A backyard
Overall: 3.5 stars.

2. Boca Brava Hotel, Golfo de Chiriqui
Location: Magnificent. Views, breeze, tropics.
Atmosphere: Bit quiet, but ideal for relaxing. And that's what they're for after all...
Hammock: Cloth, no spreaders, little short between ends. Swingability good, but bit cramped due to short ends...
Ease of beer consumption: Perfect. "Una mas cerveza por favor", and viola! There it is, chilled to 1.5 degrees.
View: Couldn't be better.
Overall: 4.9 stars!

3. Hostel Heike, Bocas del Toro
Location: Rooftop, shaded, Powerpoint in charging distance.
Hammock: Netted, very comfortable. No spreaders. In corner, poor swingability. Powerpoint doesn't work. Dammit!
Atmosphere: Chilled.
Ease of Beer consumption: need to buy beforehand, no fridge up here.
View: Only of backyards...
Overall: 4 stars (4.5 if damn powerpoint worked).

Location:In a hammock!

Los arbitros son ciegos

The Panamanians are incredulous. "Como puede ser asi?" (how can it be so?) they ask me. I just shrug. It's all I can do to stop an armed uprising.
"Siempre como asi?" (always like this?). "Always" I tell them. "It never changes".
"Pero eso era claramente sosteniendo la pelota?" (But that was clearly 'holding the ball'?). "Los arbitros son ciegos!" (the umpy's are blind!).
Even here in Panama the injustice of the white maggots is evident....

Location:On a bus to Bocas Del Toro.

Girl with the dragon tattoo - rubbish!

So just finished "The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo". What rubbish! MASSIVE plot hole makes the entire book ridiculous.

(If you haven't read it, perhaps stop reading. Or better yet, don't even bother)




Harriet was always alive, and wanted to let her uncle know that she was ok, and that's why she sent a pressed flower every year on his birthday. She supposedly did not know that everyone thought she was dead, and her death had tormented her uncle for 40 years.

How could she not know that they all thought her dead? She was in contact with Anita at least once a year, and Anita, although not living in Sweden, still has regular contact with her sister Cecilia, and Cecilia and the uncle were close. Cecilia knew that the uncle considered Harriet dead, and was obsessed with finding out what happened. It is inconceivable that Cecilia would never mention this to Anita, and equally inconceivable that Anita wouldn't alert Harriet in Australia of the fact. In which case Harriet would certainly have found a way in 40 years to let her uncle know she was ok.


Hence the whole story collapses before it even begins. Absolute rubbish. Not bothering with the rest.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:The bar

Bushwalking. Not my 'thing'.

The hotel has been very quiet last night and today. The BPers have all moved out, and there's probably only about five or six of us now here. Very nice and relaxing though, and don't have to 'do a German' and "reserve" my hammock with a towel first thing in the morning...
So I figured I should do some exploring, and find some more beaches.
They don't have maps of the island to hand out, but instead had a glance at the map in the bar to memorise the paths and tracks. The batman assured me that the best beach was just a 20 minute walk away.
After 30 minutes, no sign of a beach, and the track is look less track like by the step. Then it disappeared altogether. And it's hot. Damn hot.
There looked to be a path a few meters back that someone, sometime, somehow, used to get somewhere. I wasn't ready to retreat all the way back to the bar just yet, so gave it a shot.
Ok, so it turned out it wasn't a track, at least not a human one, but I could hear the shore so pushed on through the jungle. Swiss army knife doubling as a pathetic machete. I was lost, but not seriously lost. I knew that when I found the shore, it would be easy to find the beach even if it meant swimming around the island for a bit. What would Bear Grylls do? Probably eat a raw frog and wash it down with his own piss. I wasn't that lost, plus I had half a liter of water and a frog flavored muesli bar.
The monkeys, (howler monkeys) are everywhere, and they actually are pretty worrying. They make the worst growl/howl sound you can imagine, and watch you closely all the time.




Eventually I did come across a track, a real one, and followed it back in the direction I new the beach must be.
Then I saw the snake on the track.
I froze, even though it was at least 5 meters ahead. I just wanted to let him cross, then I'd be fine. He wasn't moving. Move Damn Snake! Nothing.
I took a step back (about 10 actually), and lobbed a branch in his direction. Shit! Direct hit! Now I've torn it, and I prepared to run. Snake didn't move. Odd. So I cautiously moved closer to see what the situation was. The situation was that the Tree Root Snake (so called cos it's actually a tree root) politely let me pass...




Just after the snake, finally came to the beach. After about an hour and a half I had found the 20 min. away beach.
It was worth it though.








Coming back, found the right path, and back in my hammock with a nice cold beer in 10 minutes. Bushwalking not my thing I decided.
Hasta,

Location:Somewhere on an island

Different strokes...

One of the best things about this trip so far, if not the best, is meeting such a variety of people all having different plans and expectations of their trip, and hearing of the various experiences.

Some people are on truly epic journeys, and it's hard not to feel timid or deficient (or embarrassed) about my own limited plans and experiences.

There are all sorts - people traveling solo for a year plus, couples or friends on 4 week trips trying to see everything, and also a lot of locals traveling in their own country on short annual leave breaks. I'd never considered backpacking in Australia, but the stuff you learn and the people you meet will make me definitely take that option when I get back.

Hearing of some of the awesome trips people are making made me think again about my decision to 'skip' 90% of south America and only visit Argentina and Panama (on this leg anyway). But, for me, it was the perfect choice. I prefer to stay in one country for a while anyway so you can get some sense of it, and I really not up to moving every two or three days, which often means spending half your last day making plans for the next days travel and accommodation. I am jealous of all the sights and experiences that many others are having, but it's just not for me.

Today for example, out of bed at 8 and moved to the bar/restaurant for breakfast, and don't plan to move for the rest of the day (except to the hammock). Nice cool breeze, cold drinks, awesome view, and today just wanting to get into my book ("The girl with the dragon tattoo" - bit boring at present but been assured it picks up after page 255). Tomorrow I will go for a walk around the island and a kayak... Mañana!

Hasta,




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:In a hammock with a cold beer...

Crabs and the meaning of life...

So I'm spending the afternoon of a beautiful private beach, and became fascinated watching the antics of the army of crabs working on the beach.

They appear to live in several distinct groups ('towns') along the stretch of beach. Each crab has its own hole ('house'), and they spend the day cleaning ('cleaning'), and keeping a wary eye for predators, in which case they scarper quick smart down their holes ('houses'). And I was thinking, "Are we so very different from these crabs?"

Yes of course we are. That's evolution baby.

Location:Boca Brava

Beaches and beers

Now have three or four days on an island in the gulf of Chiriqui marine park. Hundreds of islands, jungle (complete with monkeys - Maybe should have got those rabies shots), and beaches.

Stunning location for the hotel, although it is really a backpacker place rather than a hotel, and a great place just to chill for a while. Will probably just live in a hammock for the next couple of days and read. Ok, that may be a bit of a waste, so will do so treks and kayaking etc. First though have to fix my thong which blew out on the walk to room last night. Was a bit pissed so probably took a corner too hard and the $4.50 Woolies flip flops couldn't handle the side strain...

Spend the first day here before going to the hotel on a glorious beach with Olga, Geovanna, and Melvyn who drove me here and we all had a day at the beach. I'm amazed that there aren't more locals here, but it is also the last day of the David feria so that would keep some away. And it's not easy to get he (unless you have a family to drive you!). Getting back will mean a water taxi, bus to the next town or maybe the interamericana, then wait there to flag down a passing bus.

Anyway, as I now have wifi again just posting some pages and uploading photos.

Hasta,
















View from room


View from restaurant/bar

Location:Boca Brava, Golfo be Chiriqui, Pacific side

Back to some traveling

Was time to get back into some traveling and sightseeing, so headed up to boquete for a few days. Boquete is a town up in the mountains behind David, which is very popular with backpackers and also has a large population of Canadians, Europeans, and Americans (sorry, North Americans) who have retired/moved here for the climate and comparatively cheap cost of living. Hence it is very different from the rest of Panama, with good international restaurants and bars etc.

it is also cool to cold at night which is a great relief!

Plenty of touristy things to do, including hiking across the top of Volcan, Panamas largest mountain (actually a dormant volcano). To do this though you need to start on the other side at about midnight so you reach the summit at dawn. From here you can see (if not cloudy, hence the dawn arrival) both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. The only place this is possible I believe (cape Horn is the southern ocean so that doesn't count).

Bec, an Australian backpacker in her eleventh month of travelling (god knows how you could do that), wanted to go but was wary of doing it solo. Hiking up a mountain is not my idea of a holiday, so I wasn't interested, and as it turns out that was maybe a wise choice. Back in David, Melvyn told me all sorts of stories of people getting lost for days, falling off the mountain, getting eaten by 'tigers' (we'd call them jaguars, and they are around in these parts), or getting eaten by the cannibal tribe "Los Indios Conejo" - the rabbit tribe. So called because of their large buck teeth. He acknowledged that the existence of this tribe is somewhat of an urban myth, but it does highlight the density and unexploredness (?) of the area... Bec chose not to go...

Other activities were well worth it though - white water rafting was great, even though due to the season it was quite tame (class 1 & 2 mostly, with one short class 3 rapid), but magnificent scenery and great to be able to swim and cool off. Disappointed though as the American (sorry, North American) family didn't want to tip the raft at any of the rapids. It was Ok though, the guide pushed me often enough...

Zip lining through the canopy also great fun, but you really don't get too much time to look at the scenery below you.

And of course the obligatory coffee tour. Boquete produces the worlds most expensive coffee, but it all pretty much tasted the same to me. Interesting to see how it all is made though.

Anyway, this page is mostly so I can upload some pics.

Hasta,



Rio Chiriqui, lunch...



Wrong side of the boat...



Great views (apparently, not much time to enjoy when flying through the air)



The longest line was about 400m, and about 200 ft up. Costa Rica though is a much better zip lining place. Cheaper, and also have one run of over 2km which you can due 'Superman' style (parallel, head first, feet also elevated). Maybe next time.



I look fat in this...

Location:Boquete, Chiriqui

Pretty girls on horses!

Monday was Las Cabalgatas here in David. Part of (I think) the "international fair of san jose de david", which is sorta like our Royal Shows.

It seemed like every @#>£*€? horse in central America was here for it. Essentially it is a parade of horses and riders form everywhere, and they ride through the streets of David getting drunk! Awesome!

Some people said they were over 5000 horses taking part - it certainly felt like it - bit it is a pretty cool event. Tens of thousands of spectators line the streets for hours beforehand, then offer drinks to the riders as they pass. And there are utes and trucks in the parade dispensing rum to any of the riders who want it (all of them). Whenever there was some sort of break in the parade, it usually meant that the next thing to come along was a rum truck, with a hundred or so riders following closely.

Respect though to Olga, my host mother, who at 74ish also rode in the event. It was a very hot day, and a long one, so it was a great effort.

Last night I went back to the fair with my sister Geovanna, and cousin Jose, to have a few drinks at one of the two nightclubs that operate for the duration of the fair.

As per my usual, the first thing I did when entering the Club is look around and hopefully find someone older! But it's harder here, I'm at a genetic disadvantage. All the Latinos look at least 15 years younger than they are. Geovanna and Margarita look in their 20's, Jose looks the same as he did when I was first here (ok, maybe three feet taller and 70kgs heavier - he was only about 7), and even Olga would pass for 50's. Eventually I did spot someone older though and could begin to relax (who brings a Zimmer frame to a nightclub anyway?).

The music has changed here. No longer dominated exclusively by merengue, but as everywhere American style hip hop now rules. I gotta say though that the Latin hip hop to me seems far better, it doesn't seem to have the 'tude or the agenda. Of course I couldn't really understand what they we saying, they could have been threading to kill every cop in town and smack dozens of bitches for all I knew, but it just seems better...

After a few rums (only a dollar US for a can of rum and the local equivalent of red bull - $0.90 Australian!) though I was even trying to sing along, and even tried to see if the beat suited "Song for Argentina" (see earlier post), but I think that is more of a ballad. If only I had google, a printer, a laminator, and my shower book!

Anyway, suffering for it now, and need some rest before some white water rafting tomorrow.

Hasta!

Oh and here are some pics of Las Cabalgatas...

Location:David, Chiriqui

A revolution beckons...

(WARNING - this post contains political impressions, which even the are probably incorrect as my Spanish is still not ideal and I've only been here a couple of weeks anyway. If this stuff bores you, wait for the following post with pictures of the pretty girls on horses at Las Cabalgatas!)


I think there are two Panamas. In Panama City (PC), most people seems pretty happy with the government. Investment is flooding in, the government are buying back previously privatized infrastructure, the economy is booming (12% last year, heading for 7% this year), and they can't find enough workers.

In the Interior though, it's a different story. The people feel that the government has forgotten them and is only interested in PC and the Canal expansion. Here in Chiriqui they have sold mining and hydroelectric rites to foreign companies, yet the land these developments are on are indigenous homelands, and they are understandably not happy. The Interamericana has been regularly blockaded, and they are steadfastly refusing to budge. The trouble is, the government has already taken (and presumably spent) the money. Chiriqui, which is the farming heartland and food bowl of the country is desperately short of water (existing hydro plants), and is also beginning to challenge PC as the prime tourist draw card.

Conversations here almost always involve politics. Whereas Australian politics is a bit like Richie Benauds wardrobe (the cream, the white, the off white, the beige, or the bone? - except for the nutbag greens) here there are real distinctions in the various parties and their ideologies. While most of Latin America has shifted to the left, Panamas most recent election brought in a right minded government, but one that has since introduced some leftish policy.

Chiriqui (and some other provinces) have long harboured secessionist desires, and though I don't believe it will ever come to that, it will be interesting to watch from afar...


DISCLAIMER - ten days in country, borderline Spanish comprehension, makes the above comments and thoughts pretty much meaningless really. I just wanted to record it for my own future recollection...

Hasta!

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Bouquette, Panama

A lot happens in 25 years...

I'm now back in David, the town I lived in for a year so, so, so long ago. I thought I remembered nothing of panama city (PC), but equally David has changed a lot.

When I arrived in panama and went to the interior with Margarita, the radio station was having an 80's day, so the music was exactly as it was when I was last on these roads. Who'd have thought Kenny Loggins' "Footloose" could bring a tear to the eye...

Midnight Oil are also really popular here (as they were in Argentina), and still feature quite regularly on the radio. In fact if you You Tube the Oils you'll see a number of tracks with Spanish subtitles.

Took a bus from PC to David, hoping to view some scenery on the way, but missed the bus I was supposed to be on (I swear it left early), and had to cram onto the next. No window seat, and they all keep the curtains shut so saw nothing unfortunately (#9). They had a movie on the bus, "Titanic", in fact two movies - they showed " Titanic" twice! (#10). At least i now know the spanish for 'iceberg' ('iceberg', but said with a spanish accent), but if i need to say that during my Caribbean cruise, something has gone SERIOUSLY pear shaped... Met at David by my host mother and brother, and am back in my old room!

Went for a wander around town this morning, and at least found something familiar - the Post Office. I used to walk by there nearly every day and look into the glass fronted PO Box to see if any letters had come in, and hence remember it well!

I've been trying to contact old school friends here, via phone directory and face book, but have you any idea how many "Jose Carlos" and "Elizabeth Rosas" there are in the world? I have found one person who was a great friend, now living in PC, but I can see from her wall that she is not a regular FB user. Look at your profile Yadira!!! Later in the week I will go to Radio Chiriqui and see if they will broadcast a message. I hopefully only need to find one, who will then know others etc.

Panama had two schools per day, one in the morning, and another in the afternoon (still does). I was a morning student, and after school we'd go home and change, then meet up later at a particular corner of the town square. So I went back there this morning, but no-one showed up. I'm 25 years too late. Or maybe I was 3 hours early? Most likely though they no longer meet there I think? Would be a bit sad if they did...

Here's hoping the radio idea works!

Very interesting politically here at the moment, but I'll leave that for another blog when I've grasped more...

Hasta!

Pimp my ride!

This is the 93 foot, 120 tonne tall ship "Talofa", which I've just signed up to deliver from Panama to the US Virgin Islands next month. Just like Scal isn't she?...





It is only a delivery though, and into the trade winds, so looks like motor sailing most of the way. The skipper would like to sail as much as possible though ( obviously saves fuel), and may call into Jamaica and a few other spots depending on time. He has charters booked in the Virgin Islands mid may, so I'm hoping for fair winds and to leave as early as possible. The trip does include a transit through the canal, and they in itself will be awesome. Ive done it before on a massive ship though, so this will be far more interesting.

The skipper has a lot of experience, and the crew is him, his wife, another girl, me, plus still looking for a couple more. If anyone wants to come along, and can get here by 20th April, let me know!

This gives me plenty of time in Panama (will head to my 'hometown' tomorrow or Thursday), and may find other rides in the meantime. Possibly visits Guatemala too, some time in Bocas Del Toro, or other beach resorts, who knows...

The only problem is it leaves it very tight for finding another boat to sail to Europe in time for Riceys wedding. It is a great boat though and really can't miss this opportunity to sail on a tall ship and do another canal transit. Will have to play that by ear...

You can check out more about the boat at: www.talofacaribbeansailing.com

Some more pics:












Hasta!

Location:Panama City

Back in Panama

Nice to be back in familiar surroundings. Except nothing about this place is familiar... The amount of development that has gone on here is astounding. Pretty much all of it in just the last eight years. Panama took back control of the canal in 2000, and since then there has been plenty of money, stable government, foreign investment, and a mad scramble to build and build and build...








Panama City only has a population of about 1.4M, yet it seems to be ten times that. This development is really only in the city too. I've been told that David (the city I lived in near Costa Rica) won't look much different. Will find out in a few days.

Flying straight from Ushuaia, where it was snowing, to Panama at 37 degrees was a bit of a shock too! Had a seven hour wait back in buenos aires so didn't bother to head back into the city.

I had made contact with Margarita, who is my cousin from my first trip here, and she picked me up at the airport. So nice being met and picked up, rather than trying to find the right bus, not lose bags etc! Headed back into the city to a restaurant for some breakfast, and it was fantastic to have Panamanian food again! Such a more interesting cuisine here compared to Argentina!

Yesterday we headed into the country to visit a town that is famous for its ceramics, as Margarita has a commission to supply crockery here for the new Waldorf Astoria that is being built here (she's actually a PhD in Electrical Engineering, but designs components part time and runs a coffee plantation in Boquete and various apartments here in the city), and it does look like the interior has not changed much... There are some nice resorts being built though.








Also caught up with Bob McIntosh who was a great help to me when I was first here. We went with his son and a visiting business associate to the Balboa Yacht Club and out to some islands along the edge of the canal.

And I may have found a boat to do some Caribbean cruising too. Just spoke to the skipper and will meet him tomorrow. Sounds perfect, the only potential issue is timing. He is waiting to transit the canal so the boat can be taken to the US Virgin Islands where he has charter work. I hope he doesn't want to leave for a week or so so I have time in Chiriqui and David. Anyway, will find out more tomorrow. Very keen for this opportunity, as check out the boat at: talofacaribbeansailing.com

Fingers crossed!

It was a big call to (at lest temporarily) skip Peru, Chile, etc, but I'm very glad I did as it is great to be with friends and can't wait to revisit David and family!

Hasta!


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Panama City

Time to move...

Well I've been here for four maybe five days, and have decided its time to move on - in a big way. Tomorrow heading back to Buenos Aires (one of the problems of going to the end of the world is that the only way back again is the way you came.Damn, shouldn't have kicked that soccer ball in La Boca after all...) and then nearly certainly heading straight to Panama, bypassing Peru, Chile, Colombia, etc... At least for now.

I've been waiting for a specific boat that may have offered a possibility to cruise the Patagonian fjords, but can't really afford to wait any longer. Hence we took a boat tour of the Beagle channel yesterday. Great trip, but wouldn't happen in Oz... Boarded the boat (small, only 12 passengers), and the crew proffered a beer instead of safety info (lifejacket location, etc). Then straight out. Feel free to walk on the roof, sit on the bow, sing out if you need another beer. A prize (extra beer) is offered for the furthest travelled. In the bag I thought! Until an Afghani pipped me! So they don't only go to Australia (note to self - slightly racist, remove from draft copy to publishers). Anyway, we headed out to see god knows what in the channel.

We headed to an island which was clearly another seal and penguin colony, then suddenly the penguins took off and started flying around the boat. Two seconds of amazement were quickly replaced with the reality of a cormorant colony. And no shit, they also mentioned that another tourist boat had also spotted orcas he this morning (I hardly need mention that we saw nada).

Thence to a supposedly significant lighthouse. It was on a rock. Aren't they all?

More beer (this boat must be a brewery, and to another island where we could disembark and inspect ancient aboriginal sites and stuff. The original inhabitants apparently around this place starkers, choosing to smear themselves in seal fat in preference to clothes and skins, as such attire they believed water than skins and fur which would get wet. Also made them harder to grab when the spaniards did eventually arrive (again, potentially racist, and made up, so possibly remove...).

It was bone numbing freezing with thermals, fleece, sailing jacket etc, so maybe there is something in seal fat...

Anyway, after some more celebratory drinks, time to head back. Hey, why not let the Afghani drive? Sure! Nearly ran us aground at the next island, but that's nothing another beer won't fix...

Now don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining. In fact I think it's GREAT. We are so over governed in Australia with petty rules for everything that I loved this situation (plus I think I was pretty pissed at this stage), and it was a great trip. Any trip with flying penguins has to be up there.

Now to the change of plans. I realized that I have less time than I needed if I want to do the things that I mainly want to do - that is significant time in Panama, possibly visit Guatemala and other central American countries, Caribbean cruise, and maybe even sail to Europe for Riceys wedding. Hence the decision to head straight for Panama. And today I managed to make contact (thanks Facebook) with old friends and am greatly looking forward to spending time back there.

Oh and dreamt in Spanish last night, but I don't think I said anything or knew what the hell anyone else was saying...

And Clive Palmer is a wanker.

Some photos:

Flying penguin colony:


A significantly relevant lighthouse:


The skipper:


Afghani driving us home:


Ushuaia from some island:

Location:Still Ushuaia...

In bed

Pretty much spent the day in bed. Arrived yesterday afternoon and we had an impromptu party here at the hostel (FreeStyle - strongly recommend it if you're ever in these parts), led mostly by an ex con from Brazil. Great bloke and a sailor too, and we've resolved to sail pacific together, but as neither of us have a boat, and he is a convicted drug dealer, probably pass...

I've heard more from the skipper of the yacht in Puerto Madryn, and even though it would completely change my plans, am considering it. It would mean backtracking to PM (on that road I swore I'd never travel on again, this time by bus though), then pretty much sailing until mid May when I'd hopefully be in Puerto Montt Chile and would then fly to London. Central America, Panama, and Peru etc would have to wait until the return trip. I have contact numbers of friends of this skipper here in Ushuaia, so will hopefully catch up with them in the next couple of days. There is a newer, faster, boat apparently here that is heading up the Chillean Fjords, but as yet haven't heard back from the skipper. Anyway, the trip was intended to be flexible so will see how things pan out.

Hair of the dog time, white wine today though, and later perhaps to this great little Irish bar here. Every town in the world has an Irish pub it seems...

Hasta,




Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Ushuaia

The road to the end of the world...

...is a just and true road, for a road to the end of the world...

So perchance whilst buying cigarettes ($1.80 a pack here - there goes Trip Objective #1), we espied a sign in a car rental place advising of two days car hire, one way to Ushuaia from El Calafate for only 600 pesos! Bargain! The bus is 540 each, and a road trip to the end of the world was booked (although we had to sweat out the non turn-up of a group that had reserved it first).

Ushuaia, the end of the permanently populated earth, road trip, only 900 km, two days, cheap, awesome!

And it has been awesome, except for about 180km thru Chilean Tierra del Fuego which is the worst, scariest, no, terrifying road I've ever driven on. It is unsealed, and seemingly deliberately paved with marbles. I truly suspect that Chile does this deliberately knowing that Argentinos need to drive over it to get to their bottom province. Dust like you wouldn't believe, and no wind (this is Tierra del Feugo isn't it? One of the windiest places on earth?), yet dust hangs over the road for 500 meters from the car in front. Wanted to take a picture but we were too shitscared to reach for a camera...

Arrived rio grande 7pm, no pre arranged accommodation (had believed we might do the whole trip in a day, but 4 border/customs stops, and that fucking Chilean road put an end to that. Only hostel in lonely planet for this place has shut down, so with the help of the local cops and parking chicks, have found ourselves at fawlty towers, Tierra del Feugo style. Still, as BA'd a hotel it as, it still beats some of the hostels, I've stayed in.

Got up and drove to Ushuaia, and arrived here about midday. Plan was to use the car for the remainder of the day, but the people here drive like lunatics, and I was happy to return it in one piece.

Tierra del Fuego is magnificent. Firstly, there are trees here. In all of Patagonia, east of about 10 miles from the mountains, there are no trees. I mean NO trees. Not a single one in millions of square miles. For someone from western Europe, I can see how the enormous skies and miles of nothing may have a kind of beauty, but as an Australian I've seen plenty of empty.

The top of TdF is lucy much of Patagonia, but the bottom half is magnificent. I plan to spend four-five days here I think, and look for a boat heading north up the Chile coast. I have found one that is going that way, and am in discussions with the skipper, but the boat is in Puerto Madryn which would mean backtracking for me, and not reaching Santiago until mid may, meaning a flight to London for Rickey's wedding and having to leave central America and Peru, chile, etc to later. This skipper does have friends here though so I have a local contact which will be good. Still considering it. There is also another (faster) boat already here in Puerto Williams, and I'm trying to contact the skipper to see what his plans and dates are. Regardless, it is a beautiful spot and great hostel and am happy to pass some time here. Actually very hot and sweaty walking around town this afternoon, yet 5 days ago it snowed here. Weird.

Hasta,

The little Chevy that could...



Fawlty Towers, rio grande




Road to Ushuaia



View from hostel, looking over harbour.


Looking left. The star is on the window, not a comet...

Glaciers, and tourism tricks....

So yesterday I walked on a glacier. One of the best things I have seen in my life, despite the glacier not 'calving' at it's usual rate. This glacier (Perito Moreno) is supposed to be one of the fastest in the world, and supposedly calves icebergs daily, but apparently not today (no killer whales here either)... Fucking hell, every cop over here carries an RPG - why not loose a grenade into the face to give us punters a spectacle? It's only ice...

That said it was an awesome sight. Well worth a 20 hour bus ride, and the worst hostel bed (which to their credit they allowed me to change).

Walking on it was also fantastic. Amazingly easy with crampons strapped on, but I still refused to peer down into a 200 foot 'ice cave' to an underground stream. I got a photo of it by lying on the ice with arms outstretched, but actually still missed the big drop. Very hot too - beautiful day with full sun, and I'm wearing thermals, cotton, fleece, and sailing jacket. THEY SAID WEAR LOTS OF LAYERS! Sweated bullets...

Finished the walk with a nip of Jamiesons with glacial ice. Which brings me to my next point. Apparently, as I have now supped on glacial ice for Perito Moreno, it means I shall return some day. Like the Calafate berry I ate in El Calafate? Like the dip in the water I took in Puerto Madryn? Like the Soccer ball kicked at La Boca?? Of all the cheap local tourism marketing gimmicks, this "you shall return if..." palaver seems to be endemic. Where's the scientific proof I say! Show me the research, with dates of original visits and subsequent 'returns'. A million people a year sup glacial ice. If they all returned, the place would be bigger than Buenos Aires. Because I ate a pie floater in Adelaide and I condemned to forever return? A XXXX at the Breakfast Creek hotel will forever bring me back to Brisbane? Enough of this pseudo touristy science! I'll come back when I book a trip on web jet...

Hasta,


The ice hole I was too scared to stand over:
























Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:El Calafate